The enormous icy mountain ranges of Central Tien-Shan around
the Inylchek Glacier have a sharply continental climate with a very short
summer: the region is known as the "Arctic of Kyrgyzstan" although
situated at the same latitude of the Mediterranean Sea. The large Saryjaz
rivers, fed by the huge ice streams, flows through a gigantic canyon to
the Tarim Desert basin in China. The 62 kilometre long South Inylchek
Glacier is the third largest valley glacier outside the polar region.
The stunning marble pyramid of Khan Tengri, soaring into the sky nearby,
is known as one of the most beautiful mountains on earth!
Since the first ascent in 1931 a dozen difficult routes have been climbed
but possibilities for new lines still exist. "Asia Mountains"
organises the ascent of the safest route from the south via the west edge
of Glacier Semenovski. The route starts from base camp with its large
tents at approximately 4000m.
The usual tactics are: cross the South Inylchek Glacier to the "Shabbiness
Stop Bivouac" (4300 m). Up the steep Semenovski Glacier to the upper
basin and camp 1 at 5800 m. After ascents up to 6500 m descend to base
camp. Following a rest day up to camp 1 with more supplies for the higher
camps. Pitch camp 2 at 6300 - 6400 m and camp 3 at 6700 m.
Climb the summit: the route is on rock, snow and ice and it is normal
to fix about 280m of rope (occasionally in place during the season) on
the more difficult stretches. After the top descend to camp 3 and later
to base.The ascent is made in expedition style. Route details can be modified
according to the clients experience.
The best time for ascents is between the 20th of June and end of August
but summit success can not be guaranteed.
Conditions: Participants chose their tactics to carry out the ascent
themselves and bring their own personal, climbing and 1st aid equipment
as well as altitude tents, stoves, fuel and food.
Services: "Asia Mountains" organises all access formalities;
transport from Bishkek to Karakol, hostel accommodation there; transport
to Maida-Adyr in the Inylchek valley, helicopter flight to base camp:
large tents and food there.
For additional payment: helicopter from Bishkek or Issyk Kul to Maida-Adyr,
reconnaissance flights, transfer to routes. Guides with local knowledge
(guiding, pitching intermediate camps, cooking above base camp etc.) may
be available.
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