Korzhenevski (7105 m) P. Communism (7495 m)

Both mountains, situated just south of the Tajikistan border, are usually climbed from the same "Moskvina" base camp; either of them can be attempted first. Weather and snow conditions may prevent summit success.

Peak Evgenia Korzhenevski (7105 m) is situated on the Academia Nauk ridge, thirteen kilometres north of Peak Communism. The safest way leads up from the Korzhenevski Glacier; mostly easy rock scrambling low down with extended snow and ice above. From a last camp at 6300 m the top is gained by a snow ridge.

Korzhenevski Anmarsch
Korzhenevski approach

Peak Communism, a huge ice massif with a gigantic rock tower above, is the highest summit in Pamir. It is situated on the junction of the Academia Nauk and Pyotr Pyervy ridges and so remote that it took explorers twenty years to find a way to it. The safest route leads from the Volter Glacier bivouac (4500 m) to and across the Big Pamir Plateau (at about 6000 m, 3 km wide by 12 km long). The climb of Peak Dunshabe (6950 m) follows and the main summit is reached by a long and steep ice slope.

Services and Conditions: as for Peak Lenin (without advance base camp).


Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to Osh, hotel accommodation.
Day 2 Transport to the Tajikistan border, helicopter flight from border to "Moskvina" base camp.
Day 3-4 Acclimatisation on Fortambek Glacier (3600 m).
Day 5-6 Walk to Korzhenevskaya camp at 5100 m.
Day 7 Rest Day.
Day 8-10 Acclimatisation ascent to the Peak Chetyreh (6230 m) or Peak Vorobiev (5685 m).
Day 11 Rest day.
Day 12-16 Ascent of Peak Korzhenevski (7105 m).
Day 17 Rest day.
Day 18-24 Climb to Peak Communism (7495 m) along the Borden Ridge.
Day 25 Rest day.
Day 26 Helicopter to Tajikistan border, transfer to Osh, hotel.
Day 27 Flight from Osh to Bishkek, Guest House Asia Mountains.
Day 28

Depart for home.

 

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