|
Korzhenevski (7105 m) P. Communism (7495 m)
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Both mountains, situated just south of the Tajikistan border, are usually climbed from the same "Moskvina" base camp; either of them can be attempted first. Weather and snow conditions may prevent summit success. Peak Evgenia Korzhenevski (7105 m) is situated on the Academia Nauk ridge, thirteen kilometres north of Peak Communism. The safest way leads up from the Korzhenevski Glacier; mostly easy rock scrambling low down with extended snow and ice above. From a last camp at 6300 m the top is gained by a snow ridge. |
Korzhenevski approach
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Peak Communism, a huge ice massif with a gigantic rock tower above, is the highest summit in Pamir. It is situated on the junction of the Academia Nauk and Pyotr Pyervy ridges and so remote that it took explorers twenty years to find a way to it. The safest route leads from the Volter Glacier bivouac (4500 m) to and across the Big Pamir Plateau (at about 6000 m, 3 km wide by 12 km long). The climb of Peak Dunshabe (6950 m) follows and the main summit is reached by a long and steep ice slope. Services and Conditions: as for Peak Lenin (without advance base camp). |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||